art deco

Art deco first emerged in France in the 1910s, and then became popular all over Europe and in the United States in the 1920s-30s. Deco jewelry is characterized by bold, angular, and geometric designs, often in white metals such as platinum and the newly-invented white gold, and uniquely cut and carved gemstones were often incorporated. Asian and Egyptian design had a large influence as well. 

Why Art Deco?

First appearing in Paris in the 1910s, Art Deco style flourished in the 1920s and 30s, marking a post WWI cultural shift. Every significant change happening in the world permeated through to the arts: the geometry of the Chrysler Building rising up against the New York skyline, the influential Cubist movement flourishing on gallery walls alongside a newfound Western appreciation for the artistic heritages of Japan, China, Africa, and Indigenous America. Egyptian motifs flooded Western design after the unearthing of Tutankhamun's tomb in 1922, but the era's most transformative shift was women comprising a significant portion of the workforce, in search of styles that represented their autonomy and self-expression.

Jewelry responded to these cultural signals. Striking geometric shapes, bold contrasting colors, calibré-cut stones, and clean symmetric lines would come to define Art Deco jewelry. Today, Art Deco fine jewelry is one of the most collected antique jewelry periods, and for good reason. With its distinct design vocabulary, a solid gold Deco diamond ring or platinum bracelet is instantly recognizable to the discerning eye, and treasured as an heirloom serving as a living thread connecting culturally potent artistry of the past to the present.

What to look for

Geometry. Deco pieces are often architectural, with clean, symmetrical lines and patterns. Openwork is also popular, such as filigree or pierced details. Milgrain detailing adorns bezels and edges.

White metals. Platinum was a popular choice, as well as white gold, which was a new invention of the era. You'll see these across our Deco rings, bracelets, and antique watch chains.

Bold contrast. Black onyx with inlayed diamonds. Emerald green, rubies, and sapphires on platinum. Carved rock crystal, vivid blue zircon.

Period cuts. Old mine cut, old European cut, rose cut, and transitional cut diamonds. Calibré-cut colored stones and carved stones. New geometric cuts such as half-moons, triangles, and baguettes were popularized.

How we source

Genuine Deco pieces show their period in the details: hand-cut stones, lacy filigree details, calibré cut stones, and makers' marks from jewelers of the time. We meticulously inspect all the details when curating our collections, from diamond line bracelets to navette rings to pendants, and describe exactly what we find. We wrote a deeper dive in our handbook: all about Art Deco.

Curious what came before Art Deco? The flowing Art Nouveau collection is Deco's opposite, and the Edwardian collection is its elegant predecessor. Or see everything in vintage and our new arrivals.
What defines Art Deco jewelry?

Bold architectural design in primarily platinum and white gold, open filigree work, with strong color contrast. Old European, old mine, and transitional cut diamonds, calibré-cut colored stones, rubies and sapphire, carved rock crystal and onyx. Made from the 1910s through the 1930s.
Are these authentic Deco pieces or revival reproductions?

Every vintage piece in the molimo collection is genuine to the era represented. We source and examine each piece to uphold this commitment. We examine the construction, materials, and stylistic details of every piece to confirm its period, and we disclose the condition and any restoration in the listing. All metals and gemstones are tested. More on how we evaluate antiques in our vintage jewelry handbook.
How can you tell real Deco from a modern reproduction?

Period-accurate construction. Hand-cut old European or transitional diamonds, calibré-cut stones, metal work, and appropriate wear for age. We verify all of the details carefully before listing a piece.
Can Art Deco rings be worn as engagement rings?

Yes, and they often are! The durability of platinum and white gold alloys favored in Art Deco jewelry ensures that Deco rings are great for daily wear. The combination of larger finger presence with a low profile in many Deco rings often makes for an ideal modern engagement ring.